Appetizing Movie: “EL BULLI: COOKING IN PROGRESS”

Director Geron Wetzel’s documentary, “EL BULLI: COOKING IN PROGRESS,” opens with Chef Ferran Adria tasting a fluorescent lollipop made of a Japanese fluorescent fish made from a pastry chef in the U.S, in which the inside of Adria’s month glows brighter. The film transitions to El Bulli’s staff in the process of closing the restaurant for a length of time. The silverware is meticulously wrapped as uncommon and high tech food devices, such as a vacuum machine, are packed on to a truck. The machines’ destination is a taller, or a kitchen studio. From there, viewers have the opportunity to observe the creative process behind the innovative dishes of El Bulli.

EL BULLI: COOKING IN PROGRESS Movie Poster It’s less about the science of food, and more about the art of creativity. The documentary, “EL BULLI: COOKING IN PROGRESS,” takes the audience behind the scenes of an awarding winning chef and his culinary team’s explorations in rethinking the concept of food. For six months out of the year, the Chef and owner of El Bulli, Ferran Adriá, closes his restaurant to create magical-tasting and innovative dishes.

The art of the creative process is increasingly lost in today’s fast-paced world. As Adriá supervises the process, Oriol Castro, Eduard Xatruch, and others meticulously experiment with ingredients and cooking techniques. The process is similar to the sketch phrase of many artists. In one particular experiment, the sweet potato is boiled, roasted, vacuumized, and so forth to extract new ideas for taste and visual appearances. For the testing of wild mushrooms, varieties are arranged on a cutting board. Instead of traditionally slicing them vertically, the gills are separated from the cap, providing another visual approach to looking at a mushroom. The repetitive linear pattern of the gills is visually zen and harmonizing. Such experiments result in unusual dishes to the amusement and bewilderment of El Bulli’s customers.

A movie still of staff cleaning the kitchen behind the head of a sculpture of a bull, the restaurant's namesake.

The successful experiments return to the restaurant towards the end of six months of creativity, in which 35 new international cooks familiarize themselves with El Bulli’s hierarchy and culinary skills. Just like transferring ideas from a sketchbook to a blank canvas, Adria and his chefs continue the process of developing recipes with their successful experiments from the taller. During the first month of El Bulli’s opening, the previous season’s dishes are served. The new dishes are gradually introduced into the menu. In one scene, a cocktail made of hazelnut oil, salt, and water is served with sparkling instead flat water. Is it a happy accident? Accidents are part of the creative process.

Ferran Adriá samples a cocktail.
El Bulli is a pioneer in Spanish molecular gastronomy. With two million annual requests each year, only 50 people per night of the six months are served a 30-course menu of cocktails, snacks, tapas, desserts, and morphs (morphs are the conclusion of the menu). No guest is served the same dish from a previous season. El Bulli is a three-star Michelin restaurant outside of Barcelona, Spain. Its innovative and thought-provoking dishes have garnered prestigious culinary awards numerous times in the last decade. On July 30, 2011, El Bulli will forever close their doors, but from their creativity, contemporary culinary art has sprung.

“EL BULLI: COOKING IN PROGRESS” runs for a limited time from July 27th to August 9th at the Film Forum in New York City. Check your local independent film companies for additional screenings.

A special thank you to Publisher V. Sheree Williams for requesting MyLifeRunsOnFood.com to represent her online publication, CuisineNoirMag.com’s food blog, TheCulinaryScoop.com, at the press screening. An additional thank you to Julia Pacetti, the JMP Verdant Communications’ PR representative of “EL BULLI: COOKING IN PROGRESS,” for organizing the event and her gracious welcome.

Ferran Adria and Chefs experimenting in the taller.

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4 thoughts on “Appetizing Movie: “EL BULLI: COOKING IN PROGRESS”

  • June 13, 2011 at 6:55 pm
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    It’ll be a relief to see the creative origins of molecular gastronomy in this doco, because I find its uptake around the world to be a little haphazard and often repetitive.

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  • June 12, 2011 at 7:35 pm
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    wow! super cool article. i’ll definitely recommend to my friends.

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